What a great sequence, by a man who knows his break…
Photo: Phil Gallagher
His only goal was survival; starting over had never been an option.
This morning I watched #HurricaneMarie unload massive south swell on the California coast. One of my favorite things on earth is chasing down these storm systems.. Grateful to @surfer_magazine for letting me work as a staff photographer & roam the globe.. But nothing beats waves in your home state.
This morning: local Gabe got a absolutely crazy one today all the way across the sandbar.. I could hear hoots & hollers across the channel .. Unreal to watch and 📷
(at #HurricaneMarie - CA)